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天天洗澡和換衣服的現(xiàn)代人已經(jīng)習(xí)慣于將衣服扔進(jìn)洗衣機(jī)，并且定期“辭舊迎新”。

但是有人卻認(rèn)為，過(guò)于頻繁地洗衣服以及用洗衣機(jī)洗衣服會(huì)大大縮短衣服壽命，而且也不環(huán)保。他們的建議是，衣服能不洗就不洗。一件衣服穿十年，一年洗一次。這......你能接受嗎？

Photo by averie woodard on Unsplash

"Basically, in life, rule of thumb: if you don't absolutely have to clean anything, don't clean it."

“基本上，生活中有一條經(jīng)驗(yàn)法則：如果你不是非洗不可，就不要洗。”

Fashion designer Stella McCartney said this in an interview with the Observer this weekend, adding that she picked up the tip while working for bespoke tailors on London's prestigious Savile Row. Instead, she says, the "rule" is to "let the dirt dry and you brush it off".

上周末，時(shí)裝設(shè)計(jì)師斯特拉·麥卡特尼在接受《觀察家報(bào)》的訪談時(shí)如是說(shuō)。她還補(bǔ)充道，自己是在為聲名顯赫的倫敦薩維爾街制衣店打工時(shí)學(xué)到這一竅門(mén)的。她指出，常規(guī)做法是“讓污垢風(fēng)干然后刷掉”。

bespoke[b'spok]: adj. 定做的，定制的

It may have been a throwaway comment at the end of the interview, but something about this line stuck with readers - many of whom have been doing several loads of laundry a week.

這也許只是在訪談結(jié)尾隨口說(shuō)出的言論，但這句話蘊(yùn)含的內(nèi)容卻讓讀者念念不忘——許多人每周都要洗大量衣服。

So does she have a point? Is it better to avoid washing your clothes?

她說(shuō)的話有道理嗎？不洗衣服是不是更好？

Killing the planet one microfibre at a time 洗衣服脫落的微纖維正在一點(diǎn)一點(diǎn)地毀滅地球

Photo by Marco Secchi on Unsplash

This isn't the first time McCartney has recommended not washing our clothes. In fact, she has long advocated avoiding the washing machine - both for the longevity of the garments, but also because of the impact washing them has on the environment.

這不是麥卡特尼第一次建議不要洗衣服。事實(shí)上，長(zhǎng)時(shí)間以來(lái)她一直提倡盡量不用洗衣機(jī)，既是為了延長(zhǎng)衣物的使用壽命，也是因?yàn)橄匆路䲡?huì)對(duì)環(huán)境造成影響。

Laura Diáz Sánchez, from the Plastic Soup Foundation advocacy group, agrees with this, particularly when it comes to high-street clothes, which contain more synthetic materials such as polyester and acrylic.

來(lái)自塑料湯基金會(huì)的勞拉·迪亞茲·桑切斯同意這一觀點(diǎn)，尤其是盡量不洗商業(yè)街買(mǎi)來(lái)的衣服，這些衣服所含的聚酯纖維和腈綸等合成面料更多。

"Every time we wash our clothes an average of nine million [plastic] microfibres are released into the environment," she tells BBC News. "The way we wash our clothes affects this, as well as the way our clothes are made - but the more we wash our clothes, the more microfibres are released."

“我們每次洗衣服，平均會(huì)有900萬(wàn)個(gè)（塑料）微纖維釋放到環(huán)境中，”她告訴BBC新聞?wù)f，“我們洗衣服的方式以及衣服的制作方式都會(huì)影響環(huán)境，洗衣服越頻繁，釋放到環(huán)境中的微纖維就越多。”

When you do wash, she recommends setting the machine to a lower temperature and using liquid detergent: "Powder detergent creates more friction between the clothes [during washing], so more fibres are released, whereas liquid is smoother. The less friction there is in general, the fewer fibres are released."

如果你一定要洗衣服，她建議將洗衣機(jī)調(diào)到冷水模式，并且使用洗衣液：“洗衣粉（在洗滌過(guò)程中）會(huì)在衣服之間制造更多摩擦，因此會(huì)釋放更多的微纖維，而洗衣液則更順滑。總體上，產(chǎn)生的摩擦越少，釋放的纖維就越少。”

She advises against overloading washing machines for the same reason - fewer clothes in the drum means there's less friction.

她不建議把洗衣機(jī)裝得太滿，也是出于同樣的原因——桶里的衣服越少，意味著摩擦越少。

The art of caring for clothes 護(hù)理衣服的藝術(shù)

Photo by Pablo Heimplatz on Unsplash

But it's not just about microfibres. Washing an item of clothing too often can drastically shorten its lifespan, meaning that you're more likely to throw it out and buy something new.

但這不僅僅關(guān)乎于微纖維。過(guò)于頻繁地洗一件衣服會(huì)急劇縮短這件衣服的使用壽命，這意味著你會(huì)更早地扔掉它去買(mǎi)新衣服。

Prof Andrew Groves, head of the fashion design course at the University of Westminster, tells BBC News that the friction in washing machines is what gets rid of the stains, but is also what distorts a garment's shape and color.

威斯敏斯特大學(xué)時(shí)尚設(shè)計(jì)課程主管安德魯·格羅夫斯教授告訴BBC新聞?wù)f，洗衣機(jī)內(nèi)產(chǎn)生的摩擦可以去除污漬，但也會(huì)讓衣服變形掉色。

"I have garments in my wardrobe that I've had for decades that look brand new, simply because I know how to care for them," he says - adding that this goes for both high-end and high-street pieces. The better you look after your clothes, he says, the longer they last, and the more sustainable your fashion is.

他說(shuō)：“我衣柜里有一些衣服已經(jīng)買(mǎi)了幾十年，看上去還是嶄新的，就是因?yàn)槲抑廊绾伪ｐB(yǎng)它們。”他補(bǔ)充道，無(wú)論是高檔衣服還是商業(yè)街衣服都需要保養(yǎng)。他說(shuō)，你越善于保養(yǎng)衣服，它們的使用壽命就越長(zhǎng)，你的時(shí)尚也就更加可持續(xù)。

This is particularly true when it comes to lingerie. McCartney told the Observer that she "wouldn't change my bra every day", which is something lingerie designer Naomi De Haan agrees with.

對(duì)于內(nèi)衣來(lái)說(shuō)尤為如此。麥卡特尼告訴《觀察家報(bào)》說(shuō)，她“不會(huì)每天換胸罩”，內(nèi)衣設(shè)計(jì)師娜奧米·德·韓也認(rèn)同這一做法。

Ms De Haan's official advice to people who buy from her label, Edge O' Beyond, is to hand-wash the bras in lukewarm water after about five wears with something mild like baby shampoo.

德·韓女士對(duì)購(gòu)買(mǎi)她品牌Edge O' Beyond產(chǎn)品的用戶給出的官方建議是：在穿著胸罩五次后，用嬰兒洗發(fā)露等溫和的清洗液在溫水中手洗。

While the items she sells are more on the luxury end, she tells BBC News that this advice applies to high street underwear as well - though she says sports bras should be washed more often.

雖然她出售的胸罩比較高檔，但她告訴BBC新聞?wù)f，這一建議也適用于商業(yè)街購(gòu)買(mǎi)的胸罩，不過(guò)她指出，運(yùn)動(dòng)胸罩應(yīng)該洗得更勤一些。

"Machine washing can destroy things like delicate lace or silks," she says. "It can also make the wires pop out, it can make the colors fade, and if it's got a moulded cup it can make it go all misshapen."

她說(shuō)：“機(jī)洗會(huì)破壞精致的蕾絲或絲綢這種嬌貴衣物，還會(huì)讓鋼絲外露，使內(nèi)衣褪色，如果內(nèi)衣帶有塑形罩杯，機(jī)洗會(huì)導(dǎo)致罩杯變形。”

If you absolutely must machine wash, she adds: "Always do up the hook and eyes to stop any snagging, use a lingerie bag, don't wash with too much heat, and reshape when it's out and hang it to dry or lie it on a flat surface."

如果你一定要機(jī)洗的話，她補(bǔ)充道：“一定要把掛鉤和排扣扣好，防止內(nèi)衣被鉤破，將內(nèi)衣放洗衣袋中清洗，不要用過(guò)熱的水，在取出洗好的內(nèi)衣時(shí)要把罩杯形狀調(diào)整好，懸掛或平鋪晾干。”

snag[snɡ]: v. 鉤破

But most importantly - never, ever, tumble dry.

但最重要的是——永遠(yuǎn)永遠(yuǎn)不要用洗衣機(jī)把內(nèi)衣甩干。

Leave your jeans alone 別洗牛仔褲

Photo by Ricardo Gomez Angel on Unsplash

Sarah Clayton, head of the Love Your Clothes campaign by environmental charity Wrap, also suggests not washing your jeans, but airing them between wears instead: "If they have a stain you could try spot-cleaning them with water rather than washing the whole garment."

環(huán)保慈善機(jī)構(gòu)Wrap發(fā)起的“珍愛(ài)你的衣服”宣傳活動(dòng)的領(lǐng)頭人莎拉·克萊頓建議不要清洗牛仔褲，穿著后在通風(fēng)處晾曬即可：“如果牛仔褲上有污漬，你可以單獨(dú)用水清洗臟掉的這一塊，而不是清洗整件牛仔褲。”

Letting your jeans fester unwashed may sound a bit unsavoury, but one man in the know swears by it - Chip Bergh, the CEO of Levi's.

讓牛仔褲放著發(fā)臭也許聽(tīng)上去有點(diǎn)惡心，但有位行業(yè)內(nèi)部人士卻極其推崇這種做法——這個(gè)人就是李維斯的首席執(zhí)行官奇普·伯格。

People were a bit disturbed in May 2014 when Mr Bergh proudly declared that the pair of jeans he was wearing at the time had never been washed.

2014年5月，當(dāng)伯格先生自豪地宣稱自己當(dāng)時(shí)身穿的那條牛仔褲從來(lái)沒(méi)洗過(guò)時(shí)，人們都感到有些難以接受。

Fast-forward almost five years to March this year, and he told the US broadcaster CNN that he still hadn't washed them - despite the pair now being about 10 years old.

時(shí)間快進(jìn)到今年3月，將近五年過(guò)去了，伯格先生告訴美國(guó)CNN說(shuō)，他這條褲子還是沒(méi)有洗，盡管這條牛仔褲已經(jīng)買(mǎi)了十年。

Prof Groves agrees with Mr Bergh, and recommends sticking jeans in the freezer in order to kill germs instead.

格羅夫斯教授認(rèn)同伯格的做法，并建議將牛仔褲放在冰箱里殺菌。

"Most people I know, when it comes to their denim, don't wash it at all," he says. "Which might seem strange - it's a pair of jeans that they might wear every day. But it's usually because they don't want the color to fade."

“我認(rèn)識(shí)的大多數(shù)人都不洗牛仔褲，”他說(shuō)，“這也許看起來(lái)有些奇怪——這可是他們天天穿的牛仔褲。但他們的理由通常是不想讓牛仔褲褪色。”

This, he says, is an attitude he hopes people will apply to all of their clothes - not just their jeans.

他說(shuō)，希望人們可以用這種態(tài)度來(lái)對(duì)待所有衣服，而不只是牛仔褲。

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